Mazzei's Concerto: a vertical tasting
- Tony Lcrx
- Aug 6
- 4 min read
Updated: Sep 11
For over six centuries, the Mazzei family has been crafting wine in the Chianti Classico heartland, holding true to traditions since 1435. Yet it was in the early 1980s that the Mazzei name leapt into legend—when they boldly introduced Concerto di Fonterutoli, one of the original Super Tuscans born outside DOC constraints, daring to blend Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and age in French barriques for the very first time at Fonterutoli estate.
That inaugural 1981 vintage—just fifteen barriques—yielded a wine of such symphonic harmony that Marchesa Carla Mazzei named it “Concerto”, symbolising the graceful union of two cépages in perfect accord. Its success not only helped define the Super Tuscan revolution but also challenged Italian wine law, reshaping the country’s classification system—earning its place as a cult icon alongside the likes of Sassicaia and Tignanello, which came alive just a decade earlier.
In this sense, Concerto was still a pioneering wine in Tuscany.
In the mid-1990s, the concerto wine range had to stop in favour of their single vineyard in the Chianti Classico region.
But, the all family gave back the fame of the Concerto wine, while taking a new ownership of an exceptional amphitheatre vineyard, surrounded by forest and wild land. They purchased the land in early 2000. This became the Sassi vineyard, located at 350m of elevation, already planted with Sangiovese & Cabernet Sauvignon over the Albarese soil, a rocky, calcareous marl soil.
The wine is a masterpiece by itself. But the winery is another treasure of the winery. The Mazzei have created a completely new concept of winery at the start of this millennium. A complete gravity flow vinification process. This for the most respectful way to treat grapes during fermentations and maturations.
That particular combination of soil and climate and gentle vinification takes the final wine to its summit, thanks to its natural power and depth, as well as its refinement, bright freshness and delicacy of its tannin structure.
To me, these bottles have nothing to envy of the great growths of Bordeaux, or any icons of the New World's Cabernet and so on.
Mazzei's Concerto tasting notes
Find below my Mazzei's Concerto tasting note of the exceptional 2021, celebrating well the 40th anniversary of Concerto.
Concerto 2022
A wine driven by beautifully juicy dark fruits and delicately cooked red berries—think wild strawberries and ripe raspberries. On the second nose, a refreshing lift emerges, with soft menthol and herbaceous notes of basil and tomato leaf.
The palate is vibrant and energetic. Tannins are powerful yet velvety, wrapped in a well-integrated warmth. Still youthful, this vintage has all the structure to age gracefully for decades. Yet, it remains surprisingly approachable thanks to masterful oak ageing—discreet, soft, and perfectly handled.
A masterpiece for lovers of full-bodied wines. I imagine it served in winter with a slow-cooked fallow deer ragout. The energy of the wine meets the power of the dish—an ideal pairing for a cold winter day, best enjoyed in the company of those you love.
Concerto 2021
At first, the nose is slightly more restrained—this vintage asks for patience. But for those who can wait, the reward is immense.
The fruit is beautifully crunchy, ranging from bramble and ripe blueberries to candied cherry. Then comes a remarkable savoury depth—balsamic elegance from the Sangiovese leads the way, with notes of garrigue, cedar, turned earth, and fresh mushrooms. The Cabernet Sauvignon completes the bouquet, bringing a gentle touch of mint and noble vegetal nuance.
The palate echoes the complexity of the nose. The texture is grounded, earthy, and expressive of its clay-rich terroir. A true Mediterranean soul, with a sense of place and poise. After a generous swirl in the glass, this wine shows great harmony already. But if you can resist, give it 10 to 20 years, and it will tell a whole new story. Time and silence will serve it well.
To enjoy it now, I would pair it with slow-cooked veal fillet, roasted chestnuts, a balsamic reduction, and creamy mashed potatoes—finished with shaved black truffle. The noble texture of the wine mirrors the tenderness of the veal, while the dish remains a stage for the wine to shine.
Concerto 2020
The 2020 vintage reveals a delicate and aromatic profile, led by floral notes—hibiscus, dried violets, and rose petals. Behind the flowers lie ripe and dried cherries, dark berries, and a gentle whisper of evolution. Savoury nuances of cured meat, dry smoke, and charcoal begin to appear, adding gastronomic intrigue.
On the palate, this wine is already open and ready to enjoy. Rounded tannins and earthy depth give it a graceful, seamless texture.
My dream pairing: roasted pigeon breast with red wine jus, sautéed porcini mushrooms, and a parsnip foam. The gamey undertones of the wine resonate with the flesh of the pigeon, while the sweetness of the parsnip lifts the texture of the tannins in a harmonious dance.
If you’re a winemaker or a fellow wine lover, I’d love to hear my notes and impressions on any vintage or wine of your choice. Let’s start this tasting conversation together!
Tony Lécuroux MS
Wine lover by heart and passion.
✨Master Sommelier
🥈2nd best sommelier of Switzerland 2025
🏆 ASI Diploma Gold - Best in class 2018
🍾 Ruinart Sommelier UK winner 20188
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